My diary of walking c154km of the Camino de Santiago (Portuguese Way). You can find out more about the Camino Portuguese here.
Our 4th day of walking would see us walk from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis. The guidebook promised a fairly easy day with lots of time spent in woodland.
The hotel breakfast was more than adequate, fresh pastries, yoghurt, fruit, fresh orange juice etc. We filled our bellies and were back on the Camino by 0730. The route led us through the old town to a modern river crossing then we were in the woods. A fairly gentle morning saw a long shallow ascent arriving at San Amaro in time for a mid morning coffee and a snack. There was a really good coffee shop there and surprisingly, none of the establishments we came across were fleecing the walkers, they were all cheap and good value for money.
The guidebook mentioned a slight detour to see some waterfalls, at which there also happened to be a cafe so we decided that would be the lunch break. The temperature was rising steadily, peaking at c28 degrees C so slow and steady was the name of the game.
The waterfalls were worth the detour and the cafe gave us one of the best lunches of the entire trip. Fresh tuna belly with a huge salad. Excellent value at about €10 each.
The afternoon was a bit of a let down. The majority of the route ran alongside a busy main road and the temperature together with the heat soak and reflection made it hard going. Our energy was draining and lo and behold, another enterprising little cafe/bar right on the route. Dos Kas Limon por favour and half hour in the shade to cool down made us feel so much better. Feeling refreshed it was hats on and one foot in front of the other to get the last few km under our boots to Caldas de Reis. The afternoon wasn’t a pleasant walk alongside the main road so first port of call was a cold beer (of course).
Our accommodation was very cheap and we didn’t have high hopes but once we’d gained entry we were really surprised. It looked like a new development but €42 for a twin room with a shared bathroom was a bargain. The room was immaculate, modern and clean. A shower, clothes washing and a little snooze soon sorted us out and we hit the restaurant over the road for their peregrino menu at €12.50 each – 3 courses including a bottle of wine.
Another hot and tiring day but we made sure we stayed hydrated and ate sensibly. This would be increasingly important given the rising temperatures. Another 26km down and we were now over half way.
