My diary of walking c154km of the Camino de Santiago (Portuguese Way). You can find out more about the Camino Portuguese here.
The last day, Santiago de Compostela beckoned but not after we’d done 25km according to the guide book.
We’d decided on a very early start to beat the heat so were on the road by 0620. We were sure we’d find breakfast somewhere, after all, one of the things about the Camino is that the Camino will provide. The early morning cool (it was still dark) was welcome and the miles flew by as our pace ramped up to close to normal without the sapping heat.
Sure enough, a couple of hours in and a sign appeared advertising an albergue and breakfast. €3 each for a fresh coffee and a basket of toast with jam. Perfect!
Onwards and upwards, the morning was quite pleasant, lots of woodland tracks, little hamlets and lots of birdsong. Around 11am the heat started to make its presence known and by midday we were out in temperatures of over 30 degrees.
We were aiming for O Milladoiro for lunch which would be 8km from the finish line. The last 2km to the cafe was alongside a main road and it was brutal, the heat and heat soak from the road was energy sapping. Nevertheless, we made it to O Camino Milladoiro and enjoyed a cold drink and 2 courses with coffee for €12, another bargain.
Suitably refreshed and rested we faced the last 8km to the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. The energy kicked in and the first 3-4km zipped by but the temperature was still rising and the last few km along the main road into Santiago was hard going, there was just no shade nor breeze. However, the first glimpse of the cathedral spires pepped us up and around 1630 hrs we made it, we were in front of the magnificent cathedral along with hundreds of other pilgrims.
We took a moment to reflect then the usual call of nature made itself known – where was the nearest cold beer? It was nectar of the Gods that first cold pint, so good we had to have another one, just for quality control purposes you understand.
Hot, sweaty and full of beer we then found our accommodation, literally yards from the bar we’d been sat in. We’d booked this accommodation back in January and yet again we’d landed on our feet. A superb large twin room, very modern, lots of nice design touches, and the biggest bathroom we’d seen all week.
A nice long shower, fresh clothes then back to the bar for beer and tapas. The town was coming alive now the heat of the day was waning so we spent a pleasant couple of hours just mooching about the old town, stopping for a beer every now and then and just soaking it all in. We ended up back in the cathedral square and enjoyed a local folk group who performed for over an hour, they were brilliant and fantastic end to a long, long day.
What a day – temperatures of over 34 degrees C and just over 31km walked, but we’d done it. Portuguese Camino? Completed it mate!
